By Tara Lee | November 2011

Next time you find yourself in that bafflingly long lineup for Stepho’s, step to the side and keep on walking. Sure, you probably want some sunny Mediterranean eats on a day when even the most cheery would feel despondent in grey Vancouver, but there’s more to Greek cuisine than massive portions, lemon-y potatoes, and extra tzatziki! Nu Aegean Cusina (1661 Granville Street) is a rebranding of the previous Nu, this time with owner Harry Kambolis returning to his Greek culinary roots with the help of his mom Georgia. Start with the charred octopus with romaine salad and parsley puree or the smoked salmon tarama with grilled pita before moving on to the tender traditional roasted lamb with tomato-braised chickpeas and horta (warm greens). For doughnut holes that beat Tim Horton’s hollow, pop a loukoumades or two before heading home. New to our scene is Laziza (1175 Davie Street), a modern take on Moroccan and Lebanese fare that serves it up in elegantly inviting surroundings. Flavours are fresh and clean, from a corn-battered crispy cauliflower with tahini dip (watch out, Nuba), to Moroccan merguez lamb sausages served with couscous and a vegetable tajine. If you’re in the mood for sharing some nibbles the Mezza Sampler—with falafel, tabouleh salad and baba ghanouj—is worth considering. Mis Trucos (1141 Davie Street) draws its Mediterranean inspiration from French, Spanish and Italian culinary traditions, turning out tapas morsels that pair beautifully with a glass of vino and pleasantly desultory conversation. Foie gras mousse on crostini with onion jam and wild mushrooms on brioche with quail’s eggs are perfect two-bite jewels. For more substantial selections, opt for the braised venison ragu with yukon gold gnocchi or the paella—chock-full of roasted chicken, clams, mussels, squid and house-made chorizo. The indecisive can go for a six-course custom-crafted menu for an affordable $35.